Need advice on buying liquidation

Full Member
morales90
Posts: 6
Joined: 10 Jun 06
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10 Jun 06 07:40:55 am
It's my first time using liquidation. Can anybody give me some tips? Is it worth paying for stuff you don't even know?

Free Member
mslilly
Posts: 180
Joined: 11 Apr 06
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11 Jun 06 03:08:39 am
Is there a website you were buying from?

:lol:

Full Member
direct-consumer
Posts: 159
Joined: 30 May 06
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11 Jun 06 09:59:32 pm
I've made several bids on Link hidden: Login to view but haven't had any luck. There seems to be a lot of traffic on their website, it's hard to get good deals with everyone bidding up the prices. I would definitely read the fine print on the auction listings. When your buying in bulk and shelling out hundreds or thousands you want to be sure your going to make a profit. :roll:

Full Member
mrdew
Posts: 4
Joined: 06 Jun 06
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11 Jun 06 10:07:56 pm
Hint to the wise! I would avoid buying anything on Link hidden: Login to view. They have been listed on Link hidden: Login to view many times. I have personally sold on their site and was ripped off for 515. I have also heard of buyers being very dissatisfied with some of the products received.

Free Member
mslilly
Posts: 180
Joined: 11 Apr 06
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12 Jun 06 01:10:23 am
Wow, I didn't know that. I look there all the time, but never can get in a bid. Auctions go way to high for me!
:roll:

Full Member
jennifer77
Posts: 163
Joined: 26 Apr 06
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12 Jun 06 02:13:18 am
i have 2 going right now. Now you all are scaring me. I never win anyways but i always bid...well if the shipping is not so high

Full Member
vlhgsd
Posts: 4
Joined: 05 Jun 06
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14 Jun 06 04:40:50 pm
I've bought 3 different auctions from there. I've not really had a problem yet. I buy the returns items. Last batch had a brand new item, never opened. I do have one espresso machine that I sent to the repair facility to have fixed under warranty, but that's been the only issue I've had. When I bid, I research the prices I could get for each auction, set a personal bidding limit on the auction, if I get it great, if not, keep looking. Right now I've got about 10 different ones I'm watching. Now if you don't want to have to worry about something not being right, strictly shop the new items or shelf pulls.

anonymous
Karma: 
15 Jun 06 12:30:08 am
come on now. Yall, its the same as bidding on ebay. Just dont bid until the last minute. Snipe all of the auctions and save a lot of mulah.

Full Member
vlhgsd
Posts: 4
Joined: 05 Jun 06
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15 Jun 06 01:21:29 am
Going to sound stupid here, but the only snipe software I've found is for ebay. Is there another that you can basically use on any auction site?

Full Member
centercorp
Posts: 178
Joined: 19 May 06
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17 Jun 06 04:38:20 am
Okies this is the second time I saw this and I need to post what I posted about Link hidden: Login to view here as well.

Link hidden: Login to view is ok, you just have to know what you are getting into and DO your research into their policies, call them and ask them questions too before you bid. However steer clear of ANYTHING salvage. if its salvage then u can bet almost all are broken. My hard drive situation with ups..I got the hard drives from liquidation. They worked, about 60% of them, but almost all had bad sectors. I knew what I was getting myself into and was prepared for the risks and knew how to move the product, but you need to know that the only things u should buy are new and refurbs. I prefer new. Since this hard drive incident (UPS lost over half and damaged the other half of the hard drives physically that i finally found a buyer for) I only deal with new products, I even skipped the refurb industry! That lesson cost me over 2500 and more in stress.


You can cancel an order in progress at the cost of $200. Its not cheap but it could save you 1000's. Be aware also that the term salvage means you get what you get, there is no disputing about items not arriving as described, however the quantities can be disputed, provided they fall outside the quantity variances (most are 1-5%).

P.S. Always check the history of the person you are bidding on, for instance, in hard drives if he has very little or no history and its salvage, odds are he took the good drives out of a batch he ordered and are selling the dead hard drives to you, or he was new to the business and got nothing but dead hard drives and is looking for some patsey to offload his problems on, and maybe even turn a profit.

-Benjamin

Full Member
jennifer77
Posts: 163
Joined: 26 Apr 06
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17 Jun 06 04:56:11 am
thanks ben, i look on there for clothing from time to time but there bids gets way to high for me. I'm still trying to understand their shipping. I click get a quote, then after that i see where it says 40..00 charge. Also what does the 5% buyes fee mean?

so i bid $x.xx plus shipping plus that 40.00 plus 5%buyers fee....then thats my total? any help would be great...p.s. explain it to me like i'm 5 lol ty

Full Member
centercorp
Posts: 178
Joined: 19 May 06
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17 Jun 06 05:02:26 am
The buyer's fee is liquidation's fee for bringing the deals to you through their site. I believe the $40 is the buyer's fee. If not, it could be taxes. Some states like here in Texas requires tax. Hope this helps!


-Benjamin

Full Member
mrdew
Posts: 4
Joined: 06 Jun 06
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19 Jun 06 04:35:25 am
When I called liquidation.com and asked them a specific question, their reply was the total opposite of what actually happened in the end. Just check them out on Link hidden: Login to view.

Full Member
centercorp
Posts: 178
Joined: 19 May 06
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19 Jun 06 06:51:38 am
Could we get some details as to what happened? What was the quesiton, what did they tell you, and what happened? Also, understand that liquidation.com is a brokering site, they dont actually own those products.


-Benjamin

Full Member
vlhgsd
Posts: 4
Joined: 05 Jun 06
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19 Jun 06 05:26:02 pm
The buyers premium is on your bid not total cost. So if your bid is $200 with 5%, the premium is $10, then add your shipping costs. Residential and lift is $40 each (80 total) if weight is over 150lbs and it's not shipped by UPS but by freight company. And I typically only buy thru sellers on liquidation that I've purchased from before. I am this time though trying out a new seller so we'll see what happens with them. If I don't like them, then I won't look at their merchandise in the future and stick with the regulars. Normally I always do returns or new/shelf pulls.

Free Member
mslilly
Posts: 180
Joined: 11 Apr 06
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20 Jun 06 01:32:21 am
I think you'd be ok, bidding on new items only ... you never know what you'll get on shelf pulls or salvage?

I saw some awesome lots of clothing on their last week, brand new, nice boutique style - but the auction went way up there.

I never get close to winning, the auctions go way to high for me.

I can't find a sniper to snipe the auctions either...

I use sniper.com for Ebay. Works great! :) :)

Full Member
vlhgsd
Posts: 4
Joined: 05 Jun 06
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22 Jun 06 01:25:12 pm
Well got some stuff that was marked salvage yesterday. I looked at the pics before I bought. 3/4 was camera cards, other 1/4 laptop and computer memory. Tested all the camera cards, only had 3 that were bad, rest were fine. They were returns from a well known electronics store in the US. You def. need to check them since 3 had pics on them.

Full Member
missjones
Posts: 13
Joined: 05 Mar 06
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8 Jul 06 10:05:12 pm
I bid on 50 apple computers in working condition won the auction paid the auction then was reversed my payment and told the seller 2 hours later reported he did not have the items. I believe he did have them because he put them right back up for auction and sold them at a much higher price than I won them for. The worse part was I had 25 of them sold that covered my entire original purchase price of all 50. I still bid on items but dont think I can really get a good deal because if seller doesnt like winng bid they can lie and say they no longer have the items then re-auction them off until they get a price they like.
PS auctionsleuth works to snipe on ebay yahoo and overstock you can get a free trial for 15 days :lol:

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